Seoul: Korea Time

I landed at the Seoul Incheon airport and hopped on the airport express train bound for downtown.

I did some brief research while on the train to prime myself. Warning - the next two paragraphs are a brief history of South Korea. Feel free to skip.

For those of you who do not know (which was me before fifteen minutes on ChatGPT), the Korean Peninsula is region left scarred from WWII. Japan occupied the area until surrender in 1945. The peninsula was segmented into a USSR-occupied North and a US-occupied South at the 38th parallel. The Korean War began with an invasion from the North in 1950. South Korean and UN troops were pushed back to a small region in the Southeast. US general Douglas MacArthur countered and severed supply lines after a daring landing at Incheon, a city next to Seoul (and where I flew into). This is regarded as one of the most daring and successful amphibious landings in modern military history. As I sped by on the train I noticed the shallow mud flats which contributed to the complexity and tight timing of the American landing.

Powered by this success, UN and South Korean troops drove past the 38th parallel almost to the border with China. At this point, China intervened, pushing troops back until fighting eventually settled more or less right back at the 38th parallel. In 1953 an armistice was signed. Crucially, and this I really had no clue about, a peace treaty was never signed. So North and South Korea are technically still at war with each other. Thus the South Korean policy of mandatory service for its young men.

Upon arrival, I dropped my bags and explored Jongno, the district of Seoul where I was staying.  

Along my wandering I grabbed some hotteok, a South Korean sweet pancake full of brown sugar and chopped nuts.

Next up was of course some Michelin Guide food.

This place was technically Chinese food, but it was phenomenal nonetheless.

I learned that South Korea has a prominent Christian population, mostly Protestant but with over 4 million Catholics as well. Apparently "World Youth Day", an international Catholic youth festival, will be held in Seoul in 2027.

I saw that sign near this impressive church.

I will never get tired of East Asia's narrow neon lit streets.

The next morning I opened up the day with some more Michelin Guide food. This time it was proper Korean fare. The mandu (dumplings) were great. I have discovered I am a spicy kimchi fiend.

By the time I left the line was out the door.

After my tasty breakfast I took a subway down to the Korean War Memorial Museum. 

They had quite the assortment of military equipment on display.

This is an exact replica of a South Korean ship that was in an armed naval engagement with North Korean patrol boats back in 2002. Six South Korean sailors died during the brief 25 minute battle. I did not realize that the two countries have exchanged fire this recently. In fact, even more recently, in 2010, North and South Korea exchanged artillery fire. And even more recently, in August 2025 they exchanged warning shots at the DMZ. This region is slightly less stable than I thought.

I saw Kim Il Sung's old Limousine, captured during the Korean War.

Some other highlights include oil paintings of fighter aircraft and General MacArthur's pipe.

I saw an Instagram Reel about a good taco place near the museum, so I had to visit. Maybe it was just because I haven't had Mexican food in five months, but these tacos were spectacular. I got birria, carnitas, chorizo, and barbacoa. All the greatest hits.

I capped the day off with some creme brûlée French toast. And it was even better than it sounds. Doughy, fluffy bread soaked in sweet cream with the classic crunchy top drizzled with syrup. Say less.

I took a day trip to the DMZ on my second full day in Seoul. That deserves a blog post of its own. When I got back to the city I grabbed some street mandu.

I next walked over to Gwangjang market for some slightly tourist-catered but still tasty street food.

I struck up a conversation in (very) broken English with this guy and his wife. They ended up paying for my dessert. Korean hospitality at its finest.

I began my last full day in Seoul with some temple viewing.

This particular Buddhist temple was staffed by a lovely and chatty team of volunteers. They invited me into their heated office and hosted me with some tea. Another great Korean hospitality moment. As one would expect from volunteers at a Buddhist temple, they were extremely kind, patient, and funny.

Next up I swung by the Changdeokgung palace.

And then a neighborhood famous for its classic architecture.

I recharged with a bowl of bulgogi.

And then I stepped outside the restaurant and smelled this bakery. They only sold one product - butter salt rolls. And only in sets of four.

I ate all four. These things were so good. Imagine a warm roll / croissant hybrid sprinkled with chunks of salt. So addicting.

The next day I grabbed some bulgogi kimbap before I hopped on a bus for the train station. My next destination was Wonju, South Korea. Yes it was now time for the classic itinerary addition: a ChatGPT recommended random city. Stay tuned for the DMZ tour and an update from Wonju.